This topic will start as a regular “how-to” guide because the right way to do something is worth noting, but it doesn’t mean that everyone has the resources to do that. It is not the regular owner of an electric golf cart who has to encounter golf cart issues, and they begin to think of choices–a universal human instinct will suggest, yeah, okay, I’m just going to change the batteries.
You call to get someone to do the job for you because it’s a bit tedious for a beginner or someone who never saw several wired batteries together before, not to mention the weight and sizes. The batteries look so heavy.
Then perhaps the shocker–the price involved in changing your cart battery for a quality battery. A typical battery weight of the golf cart is 60 lbs. Even the cheapest batteries from Mexico / Korea will cost you 90-100 bucks per 6 volts each, and 100-120 dollars each per 8 volts, and a lot more for the 12 volts.
VARIOUS METHODS USED IN TESTING A GOLF BATTERY
So back to the first place, my golf cart doesn’t work, or it can’t finish a full 18 holes of golf. What do you do, and how do you decide what is wrong or what problem needs fixing?
TESTING WITH DIGITAL VOLTMETER
You can only acquire a digital voltmeter if you want to check a battery’s health. The wireless voltmeter check is useful for the voltage control and power tests of a circuit, but it only decides whether the battery has electricity. For confirmation of power, I will check the whole battery bank. Then I check each battery to see how it stacks up or if one battery could be the battery’s fault against the entire bank.
TESTING WITH A HYDROMETER
With a hydrometer, you can track the particular electrolyte gravity. The battery has to be full of charge if the specific gravity ranges between 1,100 and 1,220. The battery is useful if the specific gravity is between 1.225 and 1.265.
Please make sure you adjust the readings to the battery temperature if the hydrometer has a temperature correction log book. Distinct cell gravity differences in discharged batteries (batteries with a unique gravity of less than 1.225) are not significant.
Particular note–If a battery with a specific gravity of 1225 or more has a 50 points (0.050) variance, the battery is terrible, and it is worth replacing.
TESTING THE BATTERY LOAD
For starters, a good set of golf cart batteries can undoubtedly play some rounds of golf when fully charged. For example, you can play a golf round with a new pack of fully charged batteries with a 48-volt club car, and after the round, the battery still falls above the battery bank’s capacity threshold of 48 volts.
Because the start/stop load is not too demanding compared to the starting time, the golf cart and the batteries stop continually and are unable to take a break, although it is also because of a fully-loaded 48-volt cart with 6×8 volt batteries is about 51 volts instead of 48 volts.
PROPER LOAD TESTING PROCEDURE FOR A GOLF CHART BATTERY
- Completely charge the batteries. It is a good sign for replacement when the batteries refuse to load. Unless you need to replace or repair your golf cart battery charger because it is a problem and the reason why the cart is not working effectively.
- You will have to make sure that the batteries are charged up (No Exceptions) and moderately cooled (similar to your room temperature) to get an accurate assessment. Check voltage with Digital Volt Meter before each test, or if you buy the Load Tester, it already has a voltmeter on it to help promote the thorough testing.
FAST BATTERY CAPABILITY GUIDE FOR GOLF CHART
- Golf cart batteries are average 6 volts of 210-225 Ah
- Average golf cart batteries 8 volts of 165-170Ah
- Average golf cart battery of 12 volts of 150Ah
BATTERY LOAD TEST RESULTS FOR GOLF CHART EXPLAINED
- At an estimated 20h Ah rate of 6-volt battery will need to retain 5 volts for 15 seconds.
- At the advertised 20h Ah value, the 8-volt battery will need to retain 7 volts for 15 seconds.
- For the advertised 20hr Ah value, 12 volts of the battery will need to retain 11 Volts for 15 seconds.
REASONS FOR FAULTY BATTERIES
Battery Age: if the battery date code indicates that it is relatively old, the natural causes could cause failure.
False installation: Weak hold-offs of the battery cause unnecessary vibration, which can damage the panels and the battery internals. It is essential because the lead is not yet cured and still very soft with new batteries.
Overload: Overloading due to a rogue charger can result in overwhelming heat, loss of water, and gassing.
Unloading: Because the battery loading system is low-cost, it can cause the insulation sulfate to progressively build up and crystallize on the panels, which significantly reduces the battery capacity and recharge ability.
Failure to use the right battery: Inadequate performance of the electric system and the requirements of the cars may not have a defective size battery. (It is for those who believe that they could save a couple of dollars by using 3x 12 volts in a 36-volt golf cart which usually uses batteries of 6×6 volts.)
PRECAUTIONS FOR BATTERY TESTING
- You are using battery-related eye protection.
- Keep the batteries away from the sparks, flames, and cigarettes.
- Provide sufficient battery gas ventilation.
- Search for frozen electrolytic fluid before using load at freezing temperatures. Don’t try loading or charging your battery below 20°C. Permit the battery until an inspection or charging to warm to room temperature.
- Make sure you finish every test before you disconnect the load clamps to avoid arcing and possible battery gas explosion. Do not remove clamps for load during testing.
TIPS TO EXTEND THE BATTERY LIFE
- Slight discharges will lead to the longer life span of the battery. Batteries with plastic acid do not build a memory like rechargeable NiCads and must not be discharged entirely before charging.
- Often use your batteries and golf cart, avoid long storage times.
- Discharges commence at 50 percent (or lower). The absolute maximum release is 80 percent discharge.
- Batteries with lead-acid (80 percent or more) shouldn’t discharge entirely. It causes damage to the battery (or destroys it).
- Do not consider leaving the battery drained at any period in time.
- After every use, batteries must be placed on charge adequately.
- If your battery is not immediately out from a cart, make sure the batteries are not overcharged and boiled. The battery life will reduce drastically.
- Don’t charge batteries that have frozen.
- Maintain a record of each battery’s condition and often refer to your files.
- Make sure all batteries are kept clean, use a hard brush to pick out any terminal corrosion and dirt or dust from the battery rim.
- Start by removing the terminal connector as well as clean the post and within the connector, which leads to poor contact, arcing and heat that eventually dissolves the lead used by such components.
- Through installing the battery coverings, corrosion on battery terminals may be reduced or eliminated. (The gases created during charging are the cause of most corrosion).